Knit a Victorian Football Sweater: FREE Historical/Vintage Pattern Translation

 

 Knit a Victorian Football Sweater: 

FREE Historical/Vintage Pattern Translation

Obi-wan Kenobi voice: Hello there! 

If you're like me, you're interested in historical and vintage knitting, so first, let's be friends on that subject alone. *hands you a mug of hot coffee.*

Also if you're like me, you probably like to see what other knitters have said first about vintage and/or historical patterns just because these outdated patterns can be confusing since the terminology is, well, history. So that's what today's post is all about, friend! *refills your coffee mug*

In this post, you'll find my very own translation of a knitted Victorian football sweater pattern from 1894 into modern day knitting terms, including what size needles and weight of yarn to use! And the best part . . . It's completely FREE. The original pattern is from The Art of Knitting by Butterwick Publishing and is available for free, so if you would like to check out the original pattern, you can find that here. I also have a vlog on YouTube where I document the entire process of both translating and knitting this sweater, so if you need a visual guide for this pattern or simply like cozy, knitting ASMR vlogs, feel free to check it out. :) Otherwise, keep scrolling for the FREE translation!

Let me know in the comments below if you have any questions about this pattern, and I'll be more than happy to help!

 The original image from The Art of Knitting

The Victorian Football Sweater

The Pattern 

Note: To better demonstrate how one may alter historical knitting patterns to modern knitting terms and constructions while still keeping the pattern written in the spirit of a historical pattern, the notes below are written as what Victorian knitters call a "recipe." This means that, rather than giving specific numbers with specific instructions, I instead provide you with the math/formulae on how to construct the garment using whatever yarn and needles you have or prefer alongside the exact math/formulae that I used for my sweater. For specific pattern numbers but only for one size, please see the original design. 

Materials: 

--Yarn of your choice. I recommend NOT using a yarn that is 100% cotton or 100% of any plant fiber as this entire sweater is worked in ribbing and the nature of the fabric will either be to heavy or stretch way too quickly. Cotton/plant fiber blends should be fine. 

• For example: I used 100% acrylic yarn, weight #3/light-weight/DK weight. You can see what I used here.

--2 sizes of knitting needles, either straight or circular, one pair for the body and one pair for the ribbing. I recommend you use a needles for your body portion that gives you the drape/fabric you like (this will be determined in your gauge swatch) and that the needle size for the ribbing be 1-2 sizes smaller than that of the body.  

• For example: I used 3.75mm needles for the body and 3mm needles for the rib. 

--2 sets of 3-4 double-pointed knitting needles or 2 pairs of circulars (for the magic loop method) to knit the sleeves in the round. These needles should be the same size as those chosen above (one for the body of the sweater/sleeves, one for the ribbing. 

• For example: I used a set of 4 double pointed needles, size 3.75mm for the sleeves, and and one set of 4 double pointed needles, size 3mm, for the rib.

--Tapestry needle for weaving in ends 

-- Scissors 

--Ruler or measuring tape

Making the Sweater: 

The Body: 

Step 1: Determine How Many Sts to Cast On: With the larger sized needles, CO 24 stitches and knit at least 24 rows in a 1x1(k1, p1) rib of your choice. You can either do 1x1 rib, 1x1 twisted rib, 1x1 fisherman's rib, or 1x1 half-fisherman's rib. For my sweater, I did 1x1 fisherman's rib. I recommend this rib as it's easier on the hands and easier to do as you knit all the stitches on the WS rather than constantly ribbing. This gives you a break mentally and physically!

Step 2: Once your swatch is complete, take your ruler or measuring tape and measure how many stitches you get per 1 inch. Write that number down. For my swatch, I had 5 sts per inch. 

 

 Feel free to play around with swatches! This first   gray one I made was a worsted weight yarn using size 4.5mm needles, and I realized I didn't like the thickness of the fabric.

 

 

 This second swatch I made used DK weight yarn (what I ended up making the sweater with) and two separate needle sizes: 4.5mm (the bottom of the swatch) and 3.75mm (the top of the swatch). I saw that I liked the drape and stitch definition I got with the 3.75mm needle so that's how I made my decision. Definitely recommend you do the same to get the finished fabric you want!

 

 

 

Step 3: Determine how wide you want your finished sweater to be by either measuring a sweater you already own and like the fit of or by measuring yourself. Write this number down too. (I used a sweater I previously owned, so for me, my desired width was 23 inches.) 

Step 4: Now, multiply the number of stitches per inch from your gauge swatch (Step 2) by the desired width of your sweater (Step 3). The answer will be how many stitches you will need to cast on for the body. If you have an odd number, round your number to the nearest even number as this is important for the basketweave stitch coming up.

• For example: My swatch was 5 sts per 1 inch. My desired sweater width was 23 inches. 5x23=115. I round that number to the nearest even number which is 116. Answer: I need to CO 116 stitches. 

Step 5: Using the answer you got in Step 4, CO your desired number of stitches with the smaller needles.

Step 6: Begin the Bottom Band

• Row 1 (RS):  k2, p2 across 
• Row 2 (WS): p2, k2 across 
• Row 3: p2, k2 across
  
• Row 4: k2, p2 across
• Repeat Rows 1-4 a total of 18 rows, ending with a RS row (If using a thinner or thicker yarn, you may want to knit more or less rows. Just make sure  you end with a RS row.) 

Image of the basket-weave stitch ribbing/bottom band

 

Step 7: Begin Working the Body: Front

Switch to your larger needles. This is your setup row or, in other words, the row in which you will switch from the basketweave stitch to ribbing. Depending on what ribbing you chose will determine how you setup this row. Here are your options:

                a) If working a traditional 1x1 rib or 1x1 twisted rib, knit all stitches across. 

                b) If working a half-fisherman's or fisherman's rib, setup this row according to the setup row designated by those patterns. I used half-fisherman's rib and followed this tutorial for the setup row: here.

Once your setup row is complete, work in your chosen rib until the piece measures the length you wish the body of the sweater to be. The original pattern calls for 157 rows. I knit 110 rows. Again, this is up to you. 

   For my own purposes, I used the dimensions of a previous sweater I own for a reference as I knit. Here, I'm laying my WIP on the sweater to see how much longer I need to knit before making the shoulders. This is an idea you can use too if you don't know exactly how many rows you want!

Step 8: Shoulder Shaping: Determine how many stitches you need for each shoulder

To knit the shoulders (and the neck later), you will need to divide your sweater into thirds: 1/3 for the right shoulder, 1/3 for the neck, and 1/3 for the left shoulder. Then, round your answer to the nearest odd number because you want an even number for the neckline. 

• For example: My body has 116 stitches. To find out how many stitches I need for the shoulders and neckline, I divide that number by 3: 116/3=38.666. I now round that number to the nearest odd number which is 39. This means I have 39 stitches for the right shoulder, 38 stitches for the neck, and 39 stitches for the left shoulder. (How I got the neckline stitches: 39+39=78. 116-78-38).

• 

Step 9: Shoulder Shaping

• Row 1 (RS): With the answers in mind from Step 8, work in pattern across the number of stitches desired for the Right Shoulder. (For me, this is 39 stitches.) Then, BO in pattern the number of stitches for the neck. (For me, this was 38 stitches). Finally, work in pattern across the remaining number of stitches for the left shoulder. (For me, this was 39 stitches.) Turn your work.
• Row 2 (WS):  Work in pattern across the 39 stitches of the left shoulder for however deep you want your neckline to be.
      >>The original pattern is very, very close to the neck so the original only has a 3 row shoulder/neck depth. I personally do not like a neckline so close to my skin so I knit 14 rows for each shoulder. 
• When you've finished the desired number of rows, cut yarn and put these stitches on hold.
  
• Rejoin yarn to the right shoulder and knit in pattern for the total number of rows that you did for the left shoulder. Do NOT fasten off. 
• With RS facing, knit in pattern across the right shoulder. CO the number of stitches you bound off originally for the neck (for me, this was 38), and knit in pattern across the stitches you put on hold for the left shoulder. 

Here you see where I cast back on for the neckline and knit across the stitches I put on hold. The image is a little fuzzy so see the video for more details if need be. :)

Step 10: Begin Working the Body: Back 

Now, with your starting number of stitches back on your needle, knit in pattern for the total number of rows that you made the front for just the ribbed portion. For me, this was 110 rows. 

 Step 11: Finish With the Bottom Band

Once you have achieved your ribbed rows,  switch back to your smaller needles and knit 18 rows (or however many rows you originally knit) of basket weave stitch (see Step 6). Bind off in pattern, weave in ends. 

Step 12: Determine Armhole Depth

At this point, you can drape the fabric over yourself. Using stitch markers, mark how deep you want your armholes to be. I like fairly deep armholes and made my sweater oversized (see pictures), so my side seams were 20 inches. Once you've marked your armhole depth, take off fabric and seam the sides of the sweater with whatever seaming method you prefer. I personally prefer to seam my garments with a crocheted slip stitch because it is historical and strong.  

Step 13: Knit the Sleeves (Make 2) 

 

Using your larger set of double pointed knitting needles or the larger pair of your circular needles, pick up stitches around your armhole and join in the round. Place marker to note the beginning of your round. The number of stitches does not matter so long as you have picked them up evenly (you don't want to bunch up your fabric or make it bigger!) and that you have an even number for your ribbed pattern. 

Rounds 1-15: Work in ribbed pattern around. 

Round 16: Knit the first st, k2tg, knit until you have two sts before your marker, ssk. 

Round 17-21: Work in pattern. 

Round 22: Knit the the first st, k2tg, knit until you have two sts before your marker, ssk. 

Continue to work in pattern and then repeat the decrease round (Rounds 16 and 22 in this pattern) every 5 rounds until your sleeve reaches your desired length and width. Make sure you keep in mind that you need to add a cuff next. 

Notes to keep in mind when working sleeves: 

--Try on as you go! The best part about working the sleeves in the round is that you can put them on as you go to see how they're fitting both in width and depth. 

--Feel free to decrease more or less rapidly! If you'd like a tighter sleeve, try decreasing every other round or every third round. If you'd like a baggier sleeve, try decreasing every 7 or 10 rounds. The sky's the limit! Just remember to try on as you go.

Once your sleeve is the desired length, switch to your smaller set of DPNS or circulars and do 24 rounds of basketweave st. (See Step 6) Again, you can make do more or less rounds depending on the look you want. 

BO in pattern, fasten off. Weave in ends. 

Here's what it looks like before the collar. Sorry, black yarn is so hard to capture on camera! Again, the video has better visuals if you need them. :)

Step 14: Collar

With your smaller set of DPNS or circulars, pick up stitches around the neckband. If you want a wide neckline, pick up every st. If you want a narrower neckline, pick up every other stitch. For my sweater, I picked up every other st as my neckline was quite wide when I finished the shoulders. 

The original pattern has you work in basketweave st (see Step 6) for the desired length of collar. I, however, decided to do 2x2 rib. I also personally like my collars to be folded over for a classic look, so I knit my extra long so I could fold it down and sew it closed in the end. When collar is finished, BO in pattern and weave in ends. 

Block if necessary.  

And there you have it, folks! This was my first attempt at translating a historical knit-wear pattern into modern terms while staying true to the Victorian way of writing patterns, and I hope you found this helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave me a comment, and I'll be happy to help the best I can! Also don't forget to check out my video on how I made this sweater if you'd like a visual "tutorial" or if you simply like knitting ASMR and aesthetics. :) And if you do make this sweater  (whether you use my notes or the original pattern or both!), please remember to tag me on Instagram @morgan_f.taylor so I can see your designs! 

Until next time,  I wish you many blessings and happy knitting!