Gentleman's Ribbed Knitted Socks - FREE Victorian Sock Pattern

 

Hello fiber friends!

 I'll get straight to the point because I'm the type of person who hates blog-post scrolling through a heart-string story just to figure out if the recipe calls for milk or half and half . . . 😳 . . . if you know, you know. 

 Long story short, I have translated into modern knitting terms a Victorian sock pattern that was originally published in 1879 (you can find the original here), and it's FREE for your perusal! Even better . .  . I've made sure it comes in four sizes. 

 And don't let the term gentleman fool you. This sock is completely gender neutral and alterations can easily be made to fit a variety of sizes. If you're a history-bounding enthusiast or, such as yours truly, simply enjoy browsing antique patterns to discover lost yet highly beneficial knitting techniques without pouring the blood, sweat, and tears necessary to find out what in the world is 1lb's worth of Best Sunny wool and why suddenly does the pattern say you have a seam stitch . . . here you go. I've done all the bleeding, sweating, and crying for you. ;) 

And, if you need additional help, I vlogged myself figuring out this pattern, so if you need some visuals assistance at specific steps, you can find that video here: 

 

 Important Note: This pattern has not been professionally tech edited or tested. All grading and testing has been done on my own, which is why this pattern is available for free. If you run into any problems or have any edits/questions, please drop me a comment and I'll be happy to help!

 Happy knitting, friends! 💙

 

 Materials

Yarn: Yarn Bee Authentic Hand-Dyed Tonal 
            100% Super-wash Merino Wool  
                      Fingering Weight 
         385 m / 420 yd / 100 g / 3.5 oz
                                1 skein 
          Shown in the Beetroot colorway  

                                    OR

Any Fingering Weight / Sock-weight yarn that meets the gauge.

Yarn Tip: 3x1 rib gives your socks a nice texture WITHOUT breaking up colorways. This makes it then the perfect pattern to use up hand-dyed yarns or variegated/self-striping yarns!

Needles: 2mm (US 0) 5 double-pointed needles 

                                   OR 

2mm (US 0) circulars 32” for magic loop or 9” for  working in the round on a small circumference

Gauge (in the round): 18sts x 26 rows in 3x1 rib=2x2”

Notions: Light-bulb stitch markers or safety pins
               Scissors
               Tapestry needle for Kitchener Stitch 

Sizes:
to fit a Men’s sized 6-7, (8-9, 10-11, 12-13) foot (US)  

                                     OR
a Women’s sized 7-8, (9-10,11-12, 13-14) foot (US)

Note that these sizes are approximate and remember that everyone’s foot is shaped differently. Regardless of size, you may still need to knit more or less rounds than the pattern suggests to reach your foot measurements.Notes are provided throughout the pattern on how to modify the sock at various points to accommodate for more sizes and/or foot/fit customization.

Abbreviations
BOR: Beginning of round
cm: centimeter
dec: decrease
DPN(S): double-pointed needle(s)
in.: inches
k: knit
k2tgtfl: knit two stitches together through the front loop 
p: purl
pm: place marker
p2tg: purl two stitches together
sl: slip
ssk: slip, slip, knit 
st(s): stitch(es) 
rep: repeat
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side 
WS: wrong side

Pattern Instructions

                                 

This sock is worked from the top down with the traditional heel-flap gusset technique. For ease of access, use a highlighter or pen to mark which size you will need to follow. The pattern is read starting at the left column and then downwards followed by the right column which is read downwards. 

Cuff

Using the thumb-method or any stretchy cast on, cast on 56, (64, 72, 80) sts and join in the rnd. 

If using DPNS, divide sts evenly across  as follows: 14, (16, 18, 20 sts on each DPN)

RS Facing 
Rnd 1: k each st around 56, (64, 72, 80 sts) Place marker for BOR 
Rnd 2: p1, k1, *p1, k1* rep from *to* around 56, (64, 72, 80 sts) 

Rnds 3-30: Continue working Rnd 2 (1x1) rib until your cuff measures approximately 1in. (1.5 in./ 2 in. / 2.5 in.) OR 3cm (4cm/ 5cm/ 6cm). Remember to keep placing your marker at the BOR.

Optional: Place a lightbulb st marker every 10 rnds so you know how many rnds you k in total. This will help you k the 2nd sock exactly the same!

Note: To accommodate for a shorter/longer cuff, knit fewer or more rounds. This is why inches/centimeters are provided: to give you an idea of how long the original cuff is designed. 

Sock Leg
RS Facing 
Rnd 31: p the first st, k the next 3 sts, *p1, k3, p1, k3* rep from * to * around 56, (64, 72, 80 sts) 

Rnd 32: Continue working Rnd 31 around (3x1 ribbing) until the leg measures 5in. (6in./ 7in./8 in.) OR 13cm (15cm, 18cm, 20cm). Remember to keep placing your marker at the BOR. 

Optional: Place a lightbulb st marker every 10 rnds so you know how many rnds you k in total, as demonstrated by the image on the right. This will help you k the 2nd sock exactly the same! 

Note: To accommodate for a shorter/longer leg, k less or more rnds/in./cm.

Heel Flap 
You will now divide your sts in half to work the heel flap. 

(1st Setup Row) RS facing
At the BOR, p the first st. This p st is now considered the center of your flap. Work the established pattern repeat of 3x1 ribbing across the next 14, (16, 18, 20 sts). TURN YOU WORK.

(2nd Setup Row) WS facing
Work the established pattern repeat of 3x1 rib (now p3, k1) across the 14, (16, 18, 20) sts you just ribbed AND the center p st for a total of 15, (17, 19, 21) sts. Then, with WS still facing, work the established pattern repeat across the next 14, (16, 18, 20) sts after the center st. When you have finished these two setup rows, you will have 14, (16, 18, 20) sts on EACH SIDE of the center p st. 29, (33, 37, 41 sts total for Heel Flap.)

Leave the remaining 27, (31, 35, 39) sts on hold. You will now knit flat, meaning you’ll work ROWS BACK AND FORTH across the sts just knit for the Heel Flap. If using DPNS, the first two DPNS are for the Heel Flap. 

Row 1: With RS facing, p1, k3, *p1, k3* across, ending with p1 29, (33, 37, 41) sts 
Row 2 (WS): p3, k1, *p3, k1* across, ending with k1 29, (33, 37, 41) sts. 

Continue working back and forth Rows 1-2 until your Heel Flap measures 1.5 (2 in. / 2.5 in. / 3 in.) OR 4cm (5cm / 6cm /8cm) OR until it appears to be roughly a square shape. 

Example of Heel Flap

Optional: With light bulb stitch markers or safety pins, keep track of how many rows you knit for the Heel Flap. This will help you knit the 2nd sock exactly the same!

Example: Live stitches on the bottom two needles while the stitches on hold are the top two needles.

Heel Turn
For the remainder of the Heel, you will no longer work in ribbing. Instead, you will work in Stockinette Stitch, still working back and forth. 

RS facing
Row 1: Sl1, k14 (16, 18, 20), ssk, k1, turn. There are 10, (12, 14, 16) unworked stitches remaining after the gap. 
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1, TURN. There are 10, (12, 14, 16) unworked stitches remaining after the gap. 
Row 3 (RS): Sl1, k to 1 stitch before gap, ssk, k1, TURN. 
Row 4 (WS): Sl1, p to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog, p1, TURN. 

Keep repeating rows 3 to 4 until all stitches on either side of the gaps have been worked. 

Your last row should be a WS row and there should now be 16 (18, 20, 22) Heel sts remaining.

Gusset/Foot Stitch Pick-Up 
The sock will now be worked in the Rnd and divided into a Stockinette Stitch section (k every rnd) and a 3x1 rib section (k3, p1). 

Rnd 1 (RS): K across the 16 (18, 20, 22) of your Heel Flap. Then, pick up as if to k 12 (14, 16,18) sts on one side of the right side of the Heel Flap. You will now reach the 27, (31, 35, 39) sts you left on hold. Work 3x1 rib (k3, p1) across these 27, (31, 35, 39) sts. This ribbed section will now be referred to as the top of the sock. 

Once the top of the sock has been knitted, pick up as if to k 16 (18, 20, 22) sts on the left side of the Heel Flap. Place marker to note BOR. 

Stitches will be picked up along the side edges.

Rnd 2: K each st around, being sure to keep ONLY the top of the sock in the 3x1 rib. 
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. 

Now you will begin the decreases for the foot. 

Rnd 4: K until 2 sts before the ribbed section, ssk (1 st dec), place marker, work the ribbed pattern across the top of the foot, place marker, k2tgtfl (1 sts dec), k to BOR (2 sts dec in total across rnd).
Rnd 5: K around, work the ribbed pattern across the top of the foot, k remaining sts. 

Rep Rnds 4-5 until you have your original cast on number of 56, (64, 72, 80) sts. 

Body of the Foot 
Continue working in the established pattern of k around, work the ribbed pattern across the top of the foot, k remaining sts until the body of your sock reaches 4.5in. (5 in. / 6in. / 7 in.) or 11cm (13cm/ 15cm / 17cm).

Note: To accommodate for a shorter/longer foot, k fewer or more rnds. Just be sure to leave approximately 2 in. or 5cm for the toe shaping.

Toe Shaping
For the remainder of the sock, you will now work only in Stockinette Stitch (k every rnd) around. 
Rnd 1: K the first 11 (13, 15, 17) sts, ssk, pm, k2, k2tgtfl, pm, k 22 (24, 26, 28) sts, ssk, pm, k2, k2tgtfl, pm, k the rem 11 (13, 15, 17) sts  (52, [60, 68, 76] sts rem, 4 sts dec around). 
Rnd 2: K every st around (52, [60, 68, 76] sts) 

Rep rnds 1-2 until there are a total of 28, (32, 36, 40) sts rem. 

Seam the toe together with the Kitchener Stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block if desired. 
                                                                                                                     

 

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Please don’t forget to share your projects on Ravelry and tag me on Instagram @morgan_f.taylor so I can see your lovely socks. 😊Remember to leave a comment for any help/edits and check out this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3fFkNm1dvg) if you need additional help!